It makes a refreshing change to read a beautiful obituary of someone who is not a "celebrity", nor even that well-known, but who made a significant impact on culture nonetheless. That is exactly how I felt when I read in tonight's Evening Standard the heartfelt tribute by "renowned fashion journalist and tastemaker" Ben Cobb to his friend Edward Sexton, bespoke tailor and co-founder of the Swinging Sixties favourite Nutters of Savile Row. Here are few extracts...
He began making a name for himself as a skilled cutter and by 1967 he was working at Donaldson, Williams and Ward, a fusty Savile Row establishment. It was here Edward met well-connected salesman Tommy Nutter; bored of buttoned-up business suits, the two started a side hustle creating outré outfits for private clients. Their signature look? Big shoulders, cinched-in waists, super wide lapels and even wider trousers.“I was very influenced by the 30s and 40s,” Edward told me, “and I always loved Fred Astaire’s looks.” With funding from Cilla Black and Beatles manager Peter Brown, Edward and Tommy opened the doors to Nutters of Savile Row on Valentine’s Day 1969. The Row’s old guard didn’t know what hit them as Swinging London swarmed into Number 35a. Goodbye pinstripes; hello peacocks! That suit Mick Jagger got married in? Edward made that. Bianca’s too. Those far-out Elton John suits that inspired Harry Styles? Edward made those. And Harry’s. He dressed John and Yoko, Paul McCartney, Twiggy and Bowie. Jarvis Cocker. Bobby Gillespie. From a basement backroom, Edward systematically revolutionised menswear stitch by stitch, decade by decade...
When Edward was 76 years old, I put him on the cover of the fashion magazine Perfect. He turned up on set, immaculate as always and shoot-ready. As he stood in front of the camera I could see him mouthing something to himself. Later I asked him what he was saying. “Sex and champagne, sex and champagne,” he replied; apparently Bowie had taught him this photogenic trick. (Give it a go, it sure beats saying “Cheeese”.)
...I also had the honour of presenting Edward with the “Visionary” award at last year’s Walpole Luxury Awards...As he clutched his award, I asked if he could retire now; his reply is unprintable here but, suffice to say, Edward worked right up until the end. Standing side-by-side for our final photocall that night, I heard him mumbling Bowie’s mantra under his breath.
Sex and champagne forever, Edward.
RIP, Edward Sexton (9th November 1942 – 23rd July 2023)
Sex and Champagne relaxes the mouth muscles.
ReplyDeleteWhat a lovely man.
Sx
And what a career - everyone from The Beatles to Harry Styles! Jx
DeleteOh! I remember some sharp dressers back then. Most young men, in fact. I knew some who could drag on yesterday's jeans, add a couture shirt, maybe a hat, a silk neckerchief and swan off to Simpsons! Christ! You don't see that sort of elan here today!
ReplyDeleteSadly, the pre-eminence of the Dandy has long been in decline. I may know nothing whatsoever about his music, but thank heavens for Harry Styles, I say! Jx
DeleteA motto to live by
ReplyDelete"Bolly, sweetie?"
DeleteI think so... Jx