Wednesday, 13 March 2024

He pushed the boundaries of excess

From the fantastic tribute in the Evening Standard by David Johnson (editor of one of my fave websites Shapers of the 80s):

The press called them the “New Romantics” and the “Blitz Kids”, declaring the Eighties the “Age of the Pose”. Art-school tutor Rosetta Brooks compared their self-consciously styled poses to “street theatre ultimately extended into continuous performance as a post-punk embodiment of Gilbert and George in one person (the individualist).” Each poser, she believed, is a ready-made. Step forward fashion student Stephen Linard, who ticked all the above boxes – a flamboyant Canvey Island boy, ...who yearned to make a statement in every street or room he graced.

Arriving at St Martin’s School of Art in London (1978-81), Linard pushed the boundaries of excess…His outrageous fashion details flagged direction for the two dozen sharpest Blitz Kids who shaped the New Romantics silhouette from the Blitz onwards...

“The competition pushed you on... you might change what you were going to wear eight times on a Tuesday to try to outdo everyone else at the Blitz.”

...“The Blitz was an art students’ club. The place was choc-a-bloc with artists: Brian Clarke, Zandra Rhodes, Molly Parkin, Antony Price, Duggie Fields, Kevin Whitney and us because it was halfway between Central School and St Martin’s. People who said ‘Oh you Blitz Kids don’t DO anything’ were talking rubbish, because WE all did. We were the ones with our work in the glossy magazines long before the rest.”


Always centre stage...

With friends/fellow squatters that included Boy George, milliner Stephen Jones, "scene queen" Princess Julia, the faboo Eve Ferrett, assorted fashionistas such as The Clothes Show's Caryn Franklin and art-model Sue Tilley, and the Pet Shop Boys, and clients that included Frankie Goes to Hollywood, Spandau Ballet, Fun Boy 3 and even David Bowie, he became legendary in couture circles. He was unique!

RIP, Stephen Linard.

[click any pic to enlarge]

10 comments:

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    1. He was at the core of the whole Blitz Kids/New Romantic era! He and his clothing creations appeared in so many of the iconic images of that era - yet, while Boy George, Steve Strange, the Spandau boys and the rest got the limelight and the stardom, he remained a "back-of house" powerhouse in the menswear fashion world to the end... Jx

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  2. I really like this post! I didn't know much about the New Romantics movement because I was pretty young then, but I always had an appreciation for the artists that I knew related to it. For me, most notably was Adam Ant.

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    1. Adam Ant conquered the pop world in the early 1980s - and we adore him for it! However, despite his penchant for dressing-up, he was not a "New Romantic". His roots were in Punk, and his self-styled outfits were a nod to the Carnaby Street dandies of the 60s, the "Glam" era of the 70s, and the Kings Road styles pioneered by Malcolm McLaren And Vivienne Westwood... Jx

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    2. I trust you would know better than I would, so I'll take your word for it.

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    3. There was such an explosion of talent around at that time, everyone became swept up in the "dressing-up extravaganza", myself included! Jx

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  3. What a fabulous era that was, an explosion of talent, art, music and fashion.
    I love the group photo
    RIP. Stephen Linard

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    1. Such an amazing gathering of true "Shapers of the 80s". Jx

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  4. Great post! And that last photo is 😍

    Bloke in brown shirt looks like a young Roberto Piazza lol!

    You say Pet Shop Boys I say Marry me! Love those lads. Actually at the very moment 'Forbidden City' by Electronic showed up on my random list, coincidence? Don't think so ;-)

    Cheers.x

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    1. I had to look up Roberto Piazza, but yes - John Keeble of Spandau Ballet (for it is he) does bear a resemblance! Jx

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