Tuesday, 17 November 2020

The only natural thing about any of this is the light

From an article by Abby Aguire in Vogue, May 2019:

If you approach Mother Ru from the side, as I did, the first thing you will need to process is the eyelashes. The skull-to-eyelash ratio is so physiologically improbable that it’s a good 30 seconds before I realize that Ru is not dressed as any of his familiar alter egos. Rather, he’s a modern facsimile of Queen Elizabeth I, clothed in a billowing gold-brocade skirt, a corset, and a halo of red dreadlocks.

He knows which side is his good side. He knows how the light is hitting. He knows to lower the lashes to half-mast and let them hover there as the camera clicks. And when, after a while, Leibovitz suggests he remove his headpiece, he knows to object.

“It becomes something else without the piece,” Ru says, gesturing to the rest of his puffy-sleeved costume. “The piece sells everything else.”

“Your hair becomes a crown,” Leibovitz says gently. The exchange goes on for two minutes. Finally, RuPaul puts his (combat boot–clad) foot down. Remove the piece, and he is no longer in character. “Everything here is overdone,” he says, motioning again to his look, and then to the surroundings. “The only natural thing about any of this is the light.”

It occurs to me that RuPaul has just offered up a definition of camp. (“The essence of camp is its love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration,” Susan Sontag wrote in “Notes on ‘Camp.’ ”) More remarkably, he and Leibovitz have just unwittingly re-created one of the photographer’s most memorable shoots.

You see, twelve years ago, when Leibovitz took official portraits of Queen Elizabeth II in full regalia at Buckingham Palace, one of America’s most well-known portrait photographers asked England’s longest-reigning monarch to remove her “crown.” (It was a tiara.) A BBC film crew captured the exchange.

Leibovitz: “It will look better - less dressy - because the garter robe is so...”

Queen Elizabeth II: “Less dressy? What do you think this is?”

The queen of the United Kingdom did not want to take off her headpiece. And here in beautiful downtown Burbank, neither does the Queen of Drag.

RuPaul is 60 years old today.

All Hail!

RuPaul (born RuPaul Andre Charles, 17th November 1960)

Friday, 13 November 2020

Unlucky?

When the tea is brought at five o'clock
And all the neat curtains are drawn with care,
The little black cat with bright green eyes
Is suddenly purring there.
- HH Monro

Friday the Thirteenth

Monday, 9 November 2020

Through art, you create your own world

Another day, another Guinness...

...but when that particular scion of the brewing and banking dynasty is Daphne - then there is nothing or nobody who can even come close!

"I just am who I am. And then when people label me eccentric or different, I'm kind of astonished because I think, 'This is completely normal. This is just how I am, it's how I've always been.'"

"If I think about it too much, I can't get dressed."

"I don't regard clothing as disposable, which is probably why I have so much of it!"

"When I think my hair needs a bit of help, I just glue another bit onto my head."

"I don't tell anybody else what to wear. I would never dream of it."

"I don't do event dressing, because every day is an event."

"Through art, you create your own world."

She certainly does that:

Many happy returns, Daphne Diana Joan Susanna Guinness (born 9th November 1967)

More Daphne here

Saturday, 7 November 2020

Friday, 6 November 2020

If there’s a duke there, he can sit somewhere opposite me

Lady Elizabeth Anson, who recently departed for Fabulon, was a cousin of Her Majesty The Queen on her mother's side - and by all accounts sounds as if she was quite the hoot. It's not every royal who counted Paul O'Grady as a best friend, or could have had the nickname for Her Maj of "Shirley Temple"...

Lady Anson's forte - her career - was as a party planner, not just for royal events such as HM's 80th and 90th birthday parties and Wills and Kate's wedding reception, but also Sting's wedding, Margaret Thatcher's 70th birthday party and events for clients such as Tom Cruise and Sacha Baron-Cohen, among many others in her 50 year career. All of them had such nicknames, to ensure confidentiality when the Lady was making her arrangements.

From an interview with The New York Times in 2016, here are a few of her tips for success, dear reader, when planning your next dinner party for several hundred people including Baronets and Earls:

  • The invitation sets the tone.
    If you have a cheap-looking invitation, she says, “you imagine there’s going to be acidic wine and miserable food.” Simple and elegant are preferable to invitation one-upmanship: “Someone wanted me to do ‘save the dates’ with Swarovski crystals costing no less than £2,500 a card, and that’s just vulgarity.”
  • Good parties don’t have to be extravagant.
    “A party with good table wine and good pasta or good sausages and mash can be just as much of a success as one with Krug, caviar, oysters and lobster,” Lady Elizabeth says. “It’s not about expensive ingredients. It’s about people.”
  • Good lighting is essential.
    After the guests, the single most important element of a party is proper illumination. “Lighting makes or breaks it. You can use it to make people look nice and to divide a big room up.”
  • Getting everyone seated.
    If you’re trying to get guests to take their seats, tell them it’s a soufflé. “I’ve never had anyone come back to me later and complain that it wasn’t,”.
  • Seat all the bores together.
    “They don’t realize they’re the bores, and they’re happy,” she says. “It’s my biggest tip.”
  • A round dining table is best
    When entertaining at home, Lady Elizabeth is always glad she has a round dining room table so she can dispense with protocol - no worries about determining who is the most important guest and thus seated in the middle. “It makes life easier. If there’s a duke there, he can sit somewhere opposite me if I think there’s somebody more amusing that I want to sit next to.”
  • Pick up the phone.
    It’s the fastest way to get organized, and there are fewer misunderstandings. “It’s old fashioned but it’s instantaneous. I don’t want endless emails and bits and bobs.”
  • End a party when there’s at least 20 people on the dance floor.
    “If you let it peter out, it’s death,” she says. “I made one mistake in the whole of my career, which was being persuaded to restart the band. It was a flop.” Announce (or have the band say) that it’s the second to last dance, and then stop the bar from serving. “People leave fast when they can’t get a drink.”.

RIP, Lady Elizabeth Georgiana Shakerley CVO (née Anson, 7th June 1941 – 1st November 2020)

Thursday, 5 November 2020

The Chameleon

The ever-changing marvel that is Miss Tilda Swinton celebrates her 60th birthday today.

All hail!

Katherine Matilda Swinton (born 5th November 1960)

Sunday, 1 November 2020

A mustering of Marchionesses

On reading of the recent death of Serena Belinda ("Lindy") Rosemary Guinness, "the last Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava", and learning that one of her bequests was the magnificent Shamrock Tiara above, my interest was piqued enough to find out more about the Marchionesses and their finery...

First of this esteemed (and now defunct) line was the stern-looking Hariot Georgina Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood. Born into a convoluted line of inheritance (her father, despite being a wealthy landowner and inheritor of Killyleagh Castle, once part of the estates of the Viscounts Clandeboye, was a famed Irish independence campaigner) and her marriage to her distant cousin Frederick Temple Blackwood (another in the Clandeboye line) was originally seen as merely "politically prudent", by way of healing rifts among the claimants upon the various strands of this inheritance. However, in contrast to so many women of her class and generation, rather than just remain the loyal "hostess-wife" as her husband rose in stature through various important diplomatic posts in the British Empire - including missions to the Middle East, Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, Governor General of Canada, ambassador to Imperial Russia and to the Ottoman Empire, culminating in becoming Viceroy of India - she became actively engaged in cultivating social ties and welfare services in all the lands where her husband's postings took her. To this day, numerous 'Lady Dufferin' hospitals and clinics still exist in India, providing healthcare and health education to the poor; in particular, to women.

The diamond and pearl Dufferin and Ava Shamrock Tiara was first commissioned for the wedding of Hariot and Frederick, and became a favourite piece in the first Marchioness's ensemble.

Whether the second Marchioness, the American heiress and singer Florence (Flora) Hamilton Davis - who assumed the title when her husband, the second son (his older brother was killed in the Boer War) Lord Terence John Temple Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood, succeeded his father in 1902 - ever got to wear the tiara seems unlikely, as Terence died of pneumonia in 1918, and his mother, the Dowager, lived on until 1936. It is doubtful whether it mattered much to Flora, however, as she went on to wed "one of the richest and most distinguished nobleman in England," Richard George Penn Curzon, 4th Earl Howe. The story begins to resemble "The Fall of the House of Usher"; as the title passed to the third son Frederick, and his wife Brenda (née Woodhouse) became third Marchioness - but he, too, predeceased his mother when he was killed in a plane crash in 1930. Brenda also remarried well, becoming Lady Somerset on her marriage into a branch of the aristocratic Beaufort dynasty. At least Fred and Brenda [they sound such terribly parochial names nowadays] had kids...

Basil Sheridan Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood, the son and heir to the Dufferin and Ava title, was a notable Conservative politician and married to brewery heiress Maureen Constance Guinness, who became the fourth Marchioness. She was born of very different stock to her predecessors - having been known as one of the "Guinness Golden Girls", she was fabulously wealthy in her own right, a flamboyant socialite, and took to her new title with aplomb. The parties she hosted at their homes both in London and at Clandeboye in Northern Ireland were the talk of society. When Basil, like his father and uncles before him, died prematurely fighting in Burma in WW2 he left the family estate up to its neck in debt - so Marchioness Maureen bought it!

True to form, the estate now in the hands of its own stand-alone trust, she also kept the Marchioness title for most of her life (despite re-marrying twice) - and at every opportunity, she wore the Shamrock Tiara! [Although some members of her family probably wished she hadn't; her granddaughter recalled in her own memoirs: "At my mother's coming-out ball, attended by Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret, my grandmother 'overserved' herself champagne and slipped on the dancefloor, cracking the priceless shamrock-shaped family tiara. She never drank again."]

In his obituary for the formidable fourth Marchioness, the "biographer of great historical gays" Philip Hoare said of her:

Throughout the Fifties and Sixties she played her role as part of the international set who moved restlessly around the world. In 1961 she visited Noel Coward and the Flemings in Jamaica, and in 1965 was "the rehearsal" for Coward's famous lunch party for the Queen Mother...
Even in her nineties she was still throwing lively annual dinner parties for the Queen Mother at her home in Knightsbridge, at which the likes of Sir Alec Guinness and Barry Humphries could be found. Indeed, in later life the Marchioness - the model for Osbert Lanchester's Maudie Littlehampton - appeared also to have inspired Dame Edna.

The story doesn't end there, of course. True to their stock, courtesy of their unconventional mother, two of the offspring of Basil and Maureen went slightly "off the rails" (as far as high society circles are concerned). Only the middle child, Perdita, a respectable horse breeder (still alive, aged 96), seemed to have passed through unscathed. Lady Caroline eloped with the painter Lucien Freud and hung out with bohemians and beatniks before, a couple of marriages later, becoming a writer (and alcoholic).

As for Sheridan - the apple of his mother's eye and heir to the Marquessate - he entered the art world as a gallery owner and art patron [he supported David Hockney, and later, Derek Jarman, including his film Sebastiane] and, despite being well known as an outrageous queen, got married in style to his fourth cousin Belinda "Lindy" Guinness - the fifth Marchioness. She, of course, wore the Shamrock Tiara at the wedding.

Lindy and Sheridan, despite the unusual nature of their marriage, followed the Dowager's lead and became consummate society party hosts in the trendy art world of the Swinging Sixties - as Warhol acolyte Mark Lancaster described: "they were legendary in the late 1960s. You would find yourself talking to Princess Margaret or Duncan Grant and Angelica Garnett, or Francis Bacon or Stephen Spender or the Queen Mother."

And so we come full circle... Sheridan Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood, 5th Marquess of Dufferin and Ava, died of AIDS in 1989, leaving "the last Marchioness" to continue managing the estate trust. Her own family was another particularly unconventional" one - her father Loel Guinness left her mother for the glamorous Gloria Rubio y Alatorre who, as Gloria Guinness, became one of the most lauded glamorous fashion icons of her generation; it was through this connection that young Lindy met Truman Capote [Gloria was one of his "swans"]. Another friend of hers was Duncan Grant of the Bloomsbury Group, and Lindy became an artist in her own right even before marrying Sheridan. Under her guidance, the Clandeboye estate hosted an artistic and a conservation centre, as well as making prize-winning yoghurt, hosting music festivals, a golf course and banquet hall for weddings.

The Shamrock Tiara is currently on loan to the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in London, but no-one is quite sure who will inherit it...

Lindy Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood, Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava (née Guinness, 25th March 1941 – 26th October 2020).